Ramadan decorations and soldier in the Old City of Jerusalem

Credit: 

Mustafa al-Kharouf for Jerusalem Story

Blog Post

Ramadan, Nonetheless

Ramadan, the ninth month of the Islamic lunar calendar, is a holy month of fasting for Muslims. The month commemorates the initial revelation of the Quran to the Prophet Muhammad from God. The holy month begins and ends with the sighting of the crescent moon. During this month, Muslims practice self-restraint during the daylight hours, refraining from eating, drinking, sexual activity, and even impure or unkind thoughts. Ramadan is a time for reflection, prayer, and faithful intention. It is also a time for family and community.

After a year when the al-Aqsa Mosque, the third holiest site in Islam, was the site of nightly clashes that led to an 11-day war on Gaza and a countrywide spontaneous habbeh (“outburst”), 2022 brought the potential of even greater escalation. It was also an unusual year when a rare confluence of Easter, Passover, and Ramadan occurred in April. And right before Ramadan, in March, a week of shooting attacks in Israeli cities left 11 Israelis dead, setting the authorities and the country on edge. Far-right Israeli groups announced they were setting up armed militias. Government officials openly advocated civilians carry weapons and be prepared to use them. The potential for random vigilante violence to spin out of control was ripe.

The city teamed with Israeli soldiers and police, with 3,000 police deployed across Jerusalem.

And inevitably, clashes did occur. At the Damascus Gate/Bab al-Amud early in the month on an almost nightly basis, police clashed with community members; tens of arrests were made. In violation of all status quo rules and norms and even official Rabbinate prohibitions, Israeli authorities initially allowed large groups of Jewish settlers to enter and sometimes even pray at al-Aqsa under police protection, especially around the time of Passover mid-month, leading to community response to defend and protect their holy site.

Several times throughout the month, and starting on the second Friday during prayers, Israeli riot police raided the al-Aqsa Mosque compound and even the mosque itself at dawn during the dawn prayer, inflicting wanton violence with rubber bullets, stun grenades, and police batons. On the last Friday of Ramadan, police even deployed drones to drop tear gas on worshippers for the first time.

Anyone in the vicinity was a potential target, including worshippers and journalists. Hundreds were injured and arrested. 

Despite it all, Muslim Jerusalemites resolutely observed their holy month in both traditional and innovative ways in the city, finding moments of peace, joy, faith, and community, as these photos taken throughout Ramadan show.

Muslim Jerusalemites resolutely observed their holy month in both traditional and innovative ways in the city.

A Palestinian youth hangs a decorative Ramadan lantern or fanous in Jerusalem, 2022

A young man hangs a decorative lantern in the streets of the Old City of Jerusalem during the holy month of Ramadan, with the Israeli municipality’s barricades behind him, in April 2022.

Credit: 

Mustafa al-Kharouf for Jerusalem Story

A young man installs lights and decorations in the Old City of Jerusalem for Ramadan 2022

A young man carefully installs the lights and decorations in the Old City of Jerusalem for the holy month of Ramadan in April 2022.

Credit: 

Mustafa al-Kharouf for Jerusalem Story

A vendor prepares a fresh glass of fruit in the Old City of Jerusalem during Ramadan 2022

A skilled vendor prepares a fresh glass of fruit in the Old City of Jerusalem during the holy month of Ramadan in April 2022.

Credit: 

Muath al-Khatib for Jerusalem Story

Palestinian youth drink coffee outside Damascus Gate/Bab al-Amud at the entrance to the Old City of Jerusalem in Ramadan 2022

After a long day of fasting during the holy month of Ramadan, Palestinian youth look forward to taking a sip of freshly made coffee that is served in an old copper pot outside Damascus Gate/Bab al-Amud at the entrance to the Old City of Jerusalem in April 2022.

Credit: 

Muath al-Khatib for Jerusalem Story

One Ramadan delicacy is barazek/karakish made with roasted sesame seeds

Among the holiday treats in the Old City of Jerusalem during the holy month of Ramadan are the barazek/karakish thin delicacies, made primarily with roasted sesame seeds, as shown here in April 2022.

Credit: 

Muath al-Khatib for Jerusalem Story

A Jerusalem Old City vendor prepares qatayef, a sweet pancake stuffed with cheese or walnuts, during Ramadan 2022

During this special month, a famous falafel spot in the Old City of Jerusalem transforms to sell only qatayef: a staple Ramadan sweet dessert that resembles pancakes, as shown here in April 2022. According to the buyer’s preference, qatayef are stuffed with either walnuts or white cheese before they are fried and dunked with syrup.

Credit: 

Muath al-Khatib for Jerusalem Story

Two children in Jerusalem's Old City buy qatayef, a dessert served during Ramadan

Two children look forward to getting a bite of qatayef—a customary dessert that is especially anticipated during the holy month of Ramadan.

Credit: 

Muath al-Khatib for Jerusalem Story

A young woman tastes a piece of qatayef, a dessert served during Ramadan

A young woman savors a piece of qatayef, a well-known Ramadan treat that is dunked with sweet syrup. The only question is whether this piece is filled with walnuts or cheese. Old City of Jerusalem, April 2022

Credit: 

Muath al-Khatib for Jerusalem Story

Palestinian youth purchase different types of syrup in the Old City of Jerusalem during Ramadan 2022

Palestinian youth purchasing different types of syrup in the Old City of Jerusalem during the holy month of Ramadan, April 2022

Credit: 

Muath al-Khatib for Jerusalem Story

Palestinian actor Hussam Abu Eisheh wears a folkloric outfit and a tarboosh hat (fez) during Ramadan 2022

The Palestinian actor Hussam Abu Eisheh wearing a folkloric outfit and a tarboosh hat (fez) during the holy month of Ramadan in the Old City of Jerusalem, April 2022

Credit: 

Mustafa al-Kharouf for Jerusalem Story

A munshidin (chanters) group sings a cappella in the Old City of Jerusalem during Ramadan 2022

A munshidin (chanters) group filling up the Old City of Jerusalem’s streets with the enchanting acappella singing in praise of the spiritual month of Ramadan, April 2022

Credit: 

Mustafa al-Kharouf for Jerusalem Story

A munshidin (chanters) group sings a cappella in the Old City of Jerusalem during Ramadan 2022

A munshidin (chanters) group filling up the Old City of Jerusalem’s streets with the enchanting acappella singing in praise of the spiritual month of Ramadan, April 2022

Credit: 

Alamy Stock Photo

Palestinians enjoy Ramadan snacks and festivities in Jerusalem's Old City

Palestinians enjoying a bustling and lively night during the holy month of Ramadan in the Old City of Jerusalem, while they are offered all types of items including toys and fresh corn.

Credit: 

Mustafa al-Kharouf for Jerusalem Story

Al-Ma’dhana al-Hamra Street in the Old City of Jerusalem decorated with Ramadan lights in 2022

Al-Ma’dhana al-Hamra Street, inside al-Sa‘diyya neighborhood in the Old City of Jerusalem, decorated with Ramadan lights in April 2022

Credit: 

Mustafa al-Kharouf for Jerusalem Story

Ramadan lights in the Old City of Jerusalem in Ramadan 2022

The lights of Ramadan bring glowing colors to the streets of the Old City of Jerusalem, as exhibited close to al-Sa‘diyya neighborhood in April 2022.

Credit: 

Mustafa al-Kharouf for Jerusalem Story

Worshippers pray at the al-Aqsa Mosque compound on Laylat al-Qadr (the Night of Power) during Ramadan 2022

About 250,000 worshippers prayed peacefully at the al-Aqsa Mosque compound on Laylat al-Qadr (the Night of Power), a night reserved for deep reflection and prayer and a night on which prayer at al-Aqsa is considered especially potent in Islam, on April 27, 2022.

Credit: 

Mahmoud Illean, Associated Press